From the dramatic dunes of Sossusvlei, to pinch-me sightings of lion in Etosha, camping under the stars in Spitzkoppe and exploring the ghost town of Kolmanskop, Namibia offers the most incredible variety of experiences to any traveller. We drove from Cape Town to Etosha in our Suzuki Jimny, covering over 6000km. Our Namibia trip spanned 17 days and was one of the most incredible adventures I have been on. Overlanding Namibia is pretty accessible and you can either self-drive from South Africa easily enough or rent a car (I recommend DiscoverCars.com). You are going to need a 4×4 or high clearance vehicle. This Ultimate Guide to Namibia will outline everything you need to know about travelling to Namibia, from border crossings, to vehicle hire, road conditions, where to stay and itinerary suggestions.
Namibia has a wet rainy summer season from November to April with a dry winter April to October. We travelled in April and found it to be a wonderful time to visit the country. One or two thunderstorms threatened but never really came and otherwise enjoyed moderate temperatures of 18-25°C and sunny skies. When we visited, the country was looking particularly lush and green as it had received the biggest rainfall in 50 years! We were very lucky to experience this but I cannot promise this is what Namibia will always look like.
We travelled from Cape Town in our 2013 Suzuki Jimny. We absolutely loved our adventure in it and will post our full experience of travelling to Namibia in a Jimny on our YouTube channel (make sure you’re subscribed so you never miss a video). Driving up to Namibia from Cape Town is relatively easy with a 7 hour drive along the N2 to the Noordoewer/Vioolsdrift border post. We crossed the border within an hour passing through South African customs and border control before going to the Namibian side. On the Namibian side you first go to passport control where you complete a paper form with the details of your stay (make sure you have a pen for this). You then go to the vehicle area where you pay a fee of N$450 (1 Namibian Dollar is equivalent to R1) to drive your South African car on Namibian roads. We were told to bring our car registration papers or a letter from the bank if your car is under finance, but they never asked me for this. You then go through to Namibian customs where you may have your vehicle searched. You are not allowed to carry raw meat across the border. You are also not allowed to carry more than 2L of wine across the border. On our return to South Africa we breezed through the border even quicker.
You can fly into Windhoek and hire a car from here. If you are flying into Windhoek then the more southern parts of Namibia like the Orange River, Lüderitz, Kolmanskop and Fish River Canyon may be a little far and out of the way for you to get to. If you are doing this, I’d recommend your first stop on the trip be Sossusvlei, then follow my itinerary recommendations up to Spitzkoppe. You can then spend your last night in Windhoek before flying home.
Namibia is one of the most incredible countries to overland and for this reason I would absolutely recommend either driving your own car up from South Africa or hiring a vehicle to self-drive Namibia. You will need a high clearance vehicle to get to most places in Namibia and a car that can handle the gravel roads. There were only a couple of places we actually needed a 4×4 (the dune road to Sossusvlei) but having a 4×4 definitely made the gravel roads more manageable. If you need to hire a car I recommend DiscoverCars.com which allows you to browse various options. We also saw lots of Namibia2Go rentals on the roads and they looked pretty good. If you are planning on camping then you will also need to consider a vehicle hire that comes with all the gear you might need like a tent, mattresses, sleeping bags and camping cooking equipment. If hiring a vehicle is not accessible for you then you can opt for the Go2 Tourism Shuttle operated by The Gondwana Collection. The Go2 Tourism Shuttle provides a daily hop-on hop-off transport service for all travellers covering all the main spots like Sossusvlei, Swakopmund, Damaraland, Etosha, Windhoek and Fish River Canyon. You’ll just miss out Spitzkoppe but if you’re taking the shuttle you probably aren’t camping anyway!
Driving in Namibia was absolutely fine! The country has a mix of good tar road for the main national roads as well as plenty of gravel roads. The only place where we felt the roads were bad were the gravel roads in and out of Sossusvlei. The corrugation was really bad. You will want to pack things like a tyre changing kit, spare tyre, tow rope and decompressor for deflating your tyres for the gravel roads and reinflating them for tar roads. We have filmed a whole gear video for our YouTube channel with more details on what to pack for Namibia.
Namibia is one of those countries that has an incredible sliding scale of budget to luxury accommodation options. You can really rough it with wild camping or you can stay in 5 star luxury lodges – they have it all! We did a mix of budget self-catering chalets for our one night stopover places like Lüderitz, Swakopmund and Keetmanshoop and camping in our main destinations of Sossusvlei, Damaraland, Etosha and Spitzkoppe. For each destination of the itinerary I will link where we stayed as well as other accommodation recommendations.
*A reminder that if you book through the links in this blog I get a small commission at no extra cost to you which helps me keep these travel guides going!
Our trip started and ended in Cape Town as we drove up from home. This itinerary assumes you are coming from Cape Town but if you are just flying into Windhoek you can follow my itinerary recommendations from Sossusvlei to Spitzkoppe. On the first day you will drive just over 700km from Cape Town up the N7 to cross the border at Noordoewer/Vioolsdrift and then stay the night at the Orange River for a quick stop over. You’ll then drive 438km to Lüderitz for a night to explore the ghost town of Kolmanskop. Next you’ll drive 467km (mostly on gravel) to Sossusvlei to explore Deadvlei, the red dunes and maybe go hot air ballooning. 347km will take you to Swakopmund for an overnight stop in a European feeling coastal town before you drive 228km to Damaraland in search of desert elephants. Etosha is your next destination which is 361km away. You’ll be treated to the most incredible animal sightings and a game park with such diverse landscapes. On your way back down you’ll drive 435km to Spitzkoppe for a taste of wild camping in a beautiful conservancy area before a big drive day of 816km to Keetmashoop for a stopover. End the trip with 223km to the Fish River Canyon before completing the last 800km back home to Cape Town.
For your first night I would recommend getting over the border and spending a night in a chalet along the Orange River or staying at Noordoewer. You can stay at Noordoewer Country Escape, or Bundi Orange River Camp.
Lüderitz is the port town which offers a gateway to the fascinating ghost town of Kolmanskop. I would recommend just spending one night in Lüderitz and visiting Kolmanskop the next morning on your way out to Sossusvlei. Located 10 minutes from the port town of Lüderitz, Kolmanskop is a ghost town frozen in time. The old mining town has been taken over by the elements as the desert takes its claim on the old buildings. The cost to enter is N$180 per person which can be paid by cash or card. Come early in the morning (opens at 8am) to benefit from the incredible sunlight streams coming through the windows.
Sossusvlei is one of the main places people think of when they think of Namibia. Dramatic red dunes, the eerie beauty of Deadvlei and maybe the iconic hot air balloon ride over the Namib Desert.
We stayed at Sossus Oasis Camp which was just incredible. It is located right outside the Sesreim entrance gate to Sossusvlei and has 8 deluxe campsites. Each site has it’s own bathroom, shower and kitchen unit with a covered area and braai. There is a communal pool which is a welcome relief from the desert heat. They have a petrol station and pretty well-stocked shop onsite as well. It books up far in advance so definitely reserve your spot (with free cancellation) on Booking.com today! We absolutely loved our stay here with gorgeous views of the mountains turning pink with the sunset each evening. At just over R300 per person a night, this is such a value for money spot!
If you are using the shuttle service so aren’t camping or just prefer chalet accommodation then I’d definitely recommend booking Desert Quiver Camp. These luxury glamping units are well-equipped, close to the entrance gate to Sossusvlei and affordable at R2500 a night for two people.
If you are wanting to beat the crowds and gain an hour earlier access to Sossusvlei then consider booking at Oshana Campsite which is located inside the gates of Sossusvlei.
If you’re looking for a more luxurious experience check out Dead Valley Lodge.
Sossusvlei is the area people go to to visit Deadvlei, Dune 45 and the characteristic red/orange dunes of Namibia. These attractions are all located in the Namib-Naukluft Park which is accessed from the town of Sesriem. You’ll want to book your stay as close to the Sesriem entrance gate as possible.
In April gates open at 7am but I’d recommend getting in the car queue at around 6:30am (this may be earlier in summer so double check upon arrival). They note your details and place in the queue and you only need to pay upon your exit of the park, allowing you to make the most of those sunrise hours. The cost for South Africans is N$100 and N$50 per car. The dunes are a gorgeous red as the sun comes up. The early morning is the perfect time to either visit Deadvlei or hike Dune 45 as it’ll still be cool.
The drive from the Sesriem entrance gate to Deadvlei is 60km and will take about an hour. From here there is a parking for 2×4 vehicles and a shuttle for the last 5km to Deadvlei. If you are driving a 4×4 you can continue for the last 5km of dune road. Once you’ve parked you will then need to walk 1,2km over the dunes to get to Deadvlei. The walk takes about 15-20 minutes and I’d recommend decent shoes. I was super happy wearing my Veldskoen shoes as they had good grip and kept the sand out.
As the drive to Deadvlei takes about an hour you will not be here for sunrise. We drove straight here and didn’t stop along the way to take photos of the dunes in the sunrise light. I would recommend taking a slightly slower drive over than we did, stopping to take some pics of the dunes while they are all glowy and red, while still trying to get to Deadvlei nice and early to beat the heat and crowds.
If you want to see Deadvlei at sunrise you will need to book accommodation in the park. You can book at Oshana campsite which will allow you an hour earlier access to the park than those staying outside the camp. While I absolutely loved our stay at Sossus Oasis, this early access we have been a nice perk!
I would recommend maybe budgetting to go into the park twice. Go in once to catch for Deadvlei early in the morning and a second time to enjoy the sunrise glow on the dunes and maybe hike Dune 45.
Hot air ballooning over the Sossusvlei dunes and Namib desert is an experience that is very worthy of a bucket list spot. Established in 1991, Namib Sky is an institution in Namibia. Not only do they provide the most incredible high-end service, but they have a strong emphasis on sustainable tourism and community involvement with a local school onsite that is funded by donations and Namib Sky profits. Your hot air balloon ride will take place at sunrise and depending on the wind direction will take you over the red dunes or over the Namib desert. After an incredible experience of floating in the sky for about an hour you will land in a secluded spot in the desert to enjoy a champagne breakfast. The service was perfect and we were made to feel well looked after and treated. Find more details on their website and complete your booking with them.
On your way from Sossusvlei to Swakopmund I would recommend making a pitstop at Solitaire. This little town in the middle of nowhere has a bakery serving up world famous apple pie. The town also has a few old cars and petrol pumps surrounded by cacti which are character-filled and make for some fun photos. You can also refuel here and stop for a toilet break.
Walvis Bay is another spot you can do on your way to Swakopmund. Here you can visit the Flamingo Lagoon to see one of the most incredible flamingo sightings in the world. Unfortunately, it didn’t work out for us but I would definitely recommend making a stop on your way to Swakopmund. Walvis bay has a very well equiped mall at the Dune mall. I was so happy to see a Checkers there and it was a great place for a food restock before a week of camping.
Swakopmund only requires a short stopover on your Namibia trip but it is worthy of a stop. The town is very reminiscent of German colonial times and has a European seaside town feel to it. Take a stroll along the beach to the Swakopmund Mole to watch the sunset before grabbing dinner at one of the Brauhauses or restaurants along the beachfront.
We stayed at Mylas Cottage which was absolutely perfect. It has a beach house feel to it with a fully equipped self-catering kitchen, a nice outdoor braai area and a washing machine.
When in Swakopmund you can join a Sandwich Harbour tour, go Dune Quad biking or a Marine Safari:
Damaraland is home to the desert elephant. It is also a particularly mountainous area of Namibia and home to the Brandberg which is the highest mountain in the country. We stayed at the Brandberg White Lady Lodge which was a lovely little oasis. Unfortunately, they were busy doing construction during our stay which negatively impacted our experience as we’d come camping to enjoy the peace and quiet. Apart from this we enjoyed our stay with a stunning campsite and a lovely pool area.
Brandberg White Lady lodge offers elephant tours to see the famous desert elephants. The desert elephants roam the Ugab River between May/June to Dec/Jan. Their visit to this area is seasonal and all depends on the rain season. The rest of the year (summer time or when the country gets rainfall) they move further north into the farm lands. The elephant tours run in the morning and in the afternoon, all depending on how far or how near the Elephants are to the lodge area. Sightings can not be guaranteed. The cost is N$690 per person.
We stayed at the Brandberg White Lady Lodge for two nights and this was definitely too long as it was more of a stopover place. We have since realised that the best way to do Damaraland is to stay in two places. Perhaps one night at Brandberg White Lady and then a second night closer to Tywfelfontein or Khorixas. While there is a chance you can see the desert elephants, chances are slim and so Damaraland is less about the activities of the area and more about the place you’re staying in and enjoying the surrounding vistas. I think Damaraland offers a great opportunity to try out one of Namibia’s more luxury spots. Enjoy a spoiling by booking a night or two at Mowani Mountain Camp, Camp Kipwe, Twyfelfontein Country Lodge or Huab Lodge & Bush Spa.
Etosha National Park is one of the most iconic game reserves in Africa and an absolutely crucial stop on any Namibian itinerary. The park was absolutely stunning with such a diverse range of landscapes and incredible animal sightings. We saw lots of lion, zebra and vultures with a sprinkling of rhino and elephant. We also loved admiring the vast expanse of the Etosha Pan. It is a truly special place and we loved our time here. We stayed for 3 nights which felt like a good amount of time in the park, however, if you have more time you could definitely do a few more nights and stay at a couple of different camps in the park.
We stayed at the Okaukuejo Camp which was a stunning campsite. They also offer chalet accommodation including their premium waterhole chalets. We had the best lion sightings right outside the gate and had a rhino visiting the camp watering hole. Okaukuejo is widely recognised as the camp with the best animal sightings and is famous for its watering hole activity. You can book your stay at Okaukuejo using the Namibian Wildlife Resorts site. Camping costs N$460 per person and chalets start at N$1900 per person. Etosha accommodation books up really fast so you’ll want to try book as close to a year ahead as possible.
Spitzkoppe is a mountain range consisting of boulders in Namibia. The area is a conservancy with many picturesque rock formations, hidden caves and even a secret rock pool on top of a boulder! The best way to experience Spitzkoppe is by camping at the rest camp which is located inside the conservancy. There are 32 campsites spread out between the rocks, each providing a unique view of the Spitzkoppe pinnacle. The campsites are just about as wild as you get with no water or electricity and just a dry toilet (long drop). It’s the perfect opportunity to truly escape, enjoy being in nature and the stargazing is beyond words. The campsites are on a first come first served basis with sites 2-5 reserved for larger groups. You do need to book your spot in advance on their website or email reservations@logufa.com. The cost is N$210 per person per night.
The sunrise at Spitzkoppe is one of the most magical scenes I’ve witnessed. The pinnacle turns a vibrant orangey-red colour and glows as the sun comes up.
The arch rock is located next to campsite 5 and can be found by following the path that takes you along a route through the rocks. There are often tour groups visiting at sunset so if you see a group just follow them and you’ll find where to go. The walk there is very short and soon you’ll arrive at this picturesque arch rock. It is best for photos just before sunset or at sunrise.
The secret rock pool at Spitzkoppe is located on the boulder above campsite 2. When you walk up you will see this incredible rock pool which resembles an infinity pool. We swam here and enjoyed a morning cooling off from the Namibian heat. There are even little terrapins in the pool which were very cute!
Spitzkoppe is a famous place to go rock climbing. We didn’t partake in any climbing activities but this is a great blog post on what an adventure climbing in Spitzkoppe might entail: The Spitzkoppe Climbing Adventure
Keetmanshoop is a good stopover point for your drive back down towards Southern Namibia. We overnighted at Kitchen51 Cottages and can absolutely recommend it as a wonderful stopover. They also offer dinner which we preordered. It was absolutely divine and perfect after a big travel day in the car. It is also located nice and close to the Fish River Canyon for the next day’s adventure.
The Fish River Canyon is the second largest canyon in the world. If you are coming from Keetmanshoop I would recommend driving along the B1 to Grunau (which has a fuel station) and then driving along the C12. It was a very good gravel road. On the way you can stop at the Canyon Roadhouse which has a quirky and fun shop, cafe and fueling station. You’ll then drive the last 20km to the Fish River Canyon Hobas entrance. Please note you will need cash for this entrance as they do not have card facilities or an ATM. The cost is 100 NAD per person and 50NAD per car to enter the ǀAi-ǀAis/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park.
Once you have entered the park you’ll drive a few more kilometers following the signs to the Fish River Canyon Viewing Point. It is a breathtaking view of the vast canyon below.
I would recommend spending the night at the Ai-Ais Resort which will mean you drive all the way along the canyon to get there. Ai-Ais Resort has camping facilities as well as chalets. It has a natural hot spring which is the source for their hot spring pools. While you are there you can do the tail end of the Fish River Canyon Hike. This trail is 80km and usually a 5 day multi-day hike. But you can walk along for as much as you like for a day hike.
We spent two nights at Ai-Ais but found we could have done everything we wanted to in the area in a one night stay. This was also our last stop before driving home which made our last drive day rather epic with 800km back to Cape Town. If we did it again we would do things differently with a 1 night stay at Ai- Ais and then driven across the border to spend our last night in Springbok for a shorter final drive day back home.
We had the most wonderful trip to Namibia and would absolutely recommend it to anyone with a zest for adventure and a craving for wide open spaces. The country is so beautiful and has such a diverse range of scenery to be enjoyed. We found it to be a relatively easy trip to overland and it was totally doable in a Suzuki Jimny. We will be posting a full review of how we found travelling Namibia in a Jimny along with our gear tour on YouTube. So make sure you’re subscribed to our YouTube channel to ensure you don’t miss those videos.
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